Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Black Oud Les Senteurs Gourmandes by Laurence Dumont

White Woods, Agarwood, Patchouli, Sandalwood.

Funny how certain renditions of a particular "note" get burned into our aroma-memory and are forever aligned with a particular house or perfumer. Case in point is the patchouli implemented in Black Oud. It is reminiscent of Molinard's rendition. Not exactly the same, but definitely associated to one another.

Black Oud, on my skin at least, is not about oud. While linear, it focuses on woods and patchouli that are lightly accentuated by spice and a hint of smoke. This could have aptly been named Patchouli Noir Sport and I wouldn't have batted an eye.

This 2013 release initially goes on the skin slightly alcoholic, then quickly tempered by a woody patchouli. The accord is airy and mildly sweet, pleasant and has the earth tone you'd expect from a Les Senteur rendition of Patchouli.

Black Oud wears linear on me after numerous full wearings. After a few minutes, the version of Agarwood is downplayed and reminds me more of a barbershop-agar accord than anything else. It's not a "negative", but not something I expected. At any rate, the totality smells good and matches, if not exceeds, its own price point.

The base accord exhibits subtle spice and hints at smoke intermittently. The woods, patch and earth tones remain from beginning to end. Sillage for Black Oud is average or possibly slightly above and longevity, on my skin, is approximately 4-5 hours before morphing into a personal space scent. You'll be able to detect this 10 plus hours later. Thumbs up from Aromi for Black Oud by Les Senteurs and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Oud for Love by The Different Company

Aldehydes, Angelica, Coriander, Caraway, Saffron, Whiskey.
Cloves, Iris, Sandalwood, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang.
Agarwood, Amber, Castoreum, Caramel, Immortelle, Heliotrope, Musk, Tolu Balsam, Vetiver.

Bertrand Duchaufour's resume is.......let's just say impressive. The lists of his creations are too numerous to mention and when I recall his contributions, I think of transparency, well executed and memorable. Collection Excessive's Oud for Love is yet another worthy interpretation of the oud genre, courtesy of Bertrand. This man has skills and the uncanny ability to take an idea, shape it mentally and then manifest it in a liquid delivery system in order for you and I to not only to "see" it,but to experience it as well. I've found some similarities in Oud for Love and Ameer Al Oudh. Their themes are related and Bertrands version is airborne and clear, whereas the Lattafa is weightier and perhaps slightly less versatile because of this. I happen to like both, but Oud for Love is the more luxurious and elegant of the two after numerous comparisons.

For a surety, this release is easily worn by either gender. Much of Duchaufour's work, over the years,  has resulted in a final product with sheerness. Oud for Love continues this technique of substantial, yet breathable.

I purchased a bottle of Oud for Love in order to experience full wearings. In truth, I like it more each wearing. There's much going on in this aroma, yet it does so without yelling. The tuning of notes is the magic here. It's the difference between a guitar riff being played legato instead of staccato. Effortless and fluid from initial spray to comfortable drydown.  The use of clove here is actually masterful. Playing off other spice qualities and Tuberose, I experience a mild herbaceousness because of it. The other players, who I normally attempt to identify and extol, one way or the other, are present and accounted for, but so well orchestrated that you simply need to sample this and decide for yourself. I cannot help but recommend this if you're looking to try an elegant oud that won't make you choose between it and paying your rent.

I have absolutely no regrets for purchasing Oud for Love and because of it, I am seriously considering a bottle of Oud Shamash as well. The Different Company's Oud for Love genuinely sits in the middle of the gender line to my sensibilities. It's versatile, uplifting, elegant and does not bog you down like some ouds have a habit of. It has a rather high price point, yet can be found online for slightly under $2 per ml. That's what I paid for mine and to me, it was worth it.

Sillage is polite as you would expect, but still smells full in your personal space. Longevity is yet another deceiving attribute. You can detect this the next morning rather easily, but during the wearings, expect 5 hours. Thumbs up from Aromi for Oud for Love by The Different Company. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Sunday, February 22, 2015

Ameer Al Oudh by Lattafa

Agarwood, Vanilla, Sugar, Labdanum.

A tolerable blast of alcohol rushes out of the sprayer when applying this very pleasant Arabian creation. Take heart though, because it departs as quickly as a deadbeat dad called upon to write a check for his monthly child support payment.

As a fragrance accumulator and overall lover of scent, I've been trying to intelligently sift through the tidal wave of oud releases that have bombarded our shores and internet clutches the last few years.

My reasons are simple; I've experienced, own or have owned just about every desirable designer that I've deemed worth having in a preposterously large wardrobe. Oud is not a western sensibility and because of that, it's only recently making an impact here in the States.

Naturally, it's making an impact on my wardrobe as well, but there's always the risk of bad blind buys when pulling the trigger on full bottles because samples are not available. Yea....I've made a few disappointing purchases, but this isn't one of them. Instead of a CPO, this is western style and yet it manages to wear like a CPO delivery system, but not quite as heavy. Bottom line is that, on my skin, Ameer Al Oudh is a deep woody oud, sans the skank and complimented by a subtle gourmand and petrol quality. Is labdanum, one of my favorite accomplices, in this brew? It's hard for me to tell since Ameer Al Oudh is dense and blurred. Besides that, who cares if the totality smells good.


For its price point and availability in the States, this is a nice addition to your collection. It probably won't collect dust as it performs well in cool to cold temperatures. If you like Mukhallat Malaki CPO by Swiss Arabian or Oud for Love by TDC, there's a real good chance you'll like this as well.

Sillage is above average for an hour then settles to a polite throw. Longevity is what you would expect and has a hang time on me for about 5 hours before lasting another 5 as a personal space scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Ameer Al Oudh and as always, a sample wear is recommended, if at all possible.

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Rhinoceros by Zoologist Perfumes ( Paul Kiler )

Rum, Bergamot, Lavender. Elemi, Sage, Armoise, Conifer Needles.

Pinewood, Tobacco, Immortelle, Geranium, Agarwood, Chinese Cedar Wood.

Vetiver, Sandalwood, Amber, Smoke, Leather, Musks.

Mrs. Aromi and I could not possibly be more different when it comes to processing aromas we encounter. 99% of what I like, she naturally dislikes.....or hates outright. It's an amazing thing. Rhinoceros by Paul Kiler is a case in point. She says " It smells like a funky mens locker room", whilst I interpret it as a slightly boozy, woody leather with smoke. To drive this home. his other release called "PANDA" is one she delights herself in, yet I experience a borderline urinous accord the entire wearing. Suffice it to say I did not enjoy that one.........

Rhino however spreads out on the skin, upon application, like a well groomed and clean shaven group of football players, bursting out of the huddle and lining up at the line of scrimmage. There's energy here that is tangible. The notes are packed tightly together and then once the huddle breaks, an audible is called and the formation spreads out, giving everything more room.

There's an approximate 2-3 minute window, immediately following application, that I can detect almost every listed note. Almost as quickly, that clarity vanishes and is replaced by a heavier, denser quality and aroma. This begins the heart of Rhinoceros and it pumps the suggestion of whiskey soaked suede, pepper, moist earth and forest woods that have been permanently altered by heat and fire. From the initial, subtle smokiness, a charred leather rears its head and supplants the suede that manifested only moments earlier. These were noticeable transitions and I enjoyed trying to analyze them in real time.

Rhinoceros spends the remainder of its time, on my skin, as a smoke-infused woody leather, accented intermittently by earthy tones. The rendition of smoke here, used by Paul Kiler, once the base and drydown commence is perhaps one of the more superior and wearable ones I've come across as of late.

Sillage is average or slightly better than that, with longevity approximately 4-5 hours on my skin before turning into a skin scent for just as long. This accomplished with moderate sprays. Thumbs up from Aromi for Paul Kiler's Rhinoceros and as you would expect, a sample wear is recommend before purchase.

Sunday, June 22, 2014

Tristano Onofri revisited

Basil, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Green Notes, Lavender.
Geranium, Jasmine, Muguet, Rose, Sandalwood.
Amber, Cedar, Leather, Moss, Musk, Tonka, Vanilla.

First, a shout out to my friend Henry Ong ( aka XMEN and mrscentman) for my recent purchase of Tristano Onofri. Thanks again Henry. As always, it was a pleasure to deal with an honest, reputable human being such as yourself. Suffice it to say that the items were completely intact and stored properly. My first encounter with Tristano came sometime in 2008 and if memory serves, I received that bottle from Henry as well. Tristano Onofri is a dignified masculine that flirts with woods, fougere and oriental. I suppose I wouldn't be remiss if I stated it's a Woody Fougiental. Regardless of its category, the important things are overall aroma and performance.

Tristano opens with a thicker feel than you might expect, compared to its volume and throw. It seems to hug the skin and retain a substantial quality without permeating your surroundings. I find this aspect of the fragrance to allow one the opportunity to smell good at work or in other, conscientious conditions. The volume is governed, but succeeds in smelling full.

Blurred or well blended, depending upon how you want to look at it, there's contributions from many players without any one note overtaking the composition. On my skin, the suggestion of green bouquet, mild spice and a woody undertow come to the fore and stay prevalent until the drydown stage. Sure, there are noticeable nuances from others in the accords, but I'm simply describing what flourishes on me. What I notice most is that Tristano simply smells good and leans perhaps a tad formal. This would surely perform admirably in close quarters.

I understand the term "formal" may raise red flags with some and construe Tristano as a potentially dated fragrance. I don't find it that way at all and if I smelled this on a man of any age, I wouldn't bat an eyebrow. I would however, think that he sure smells pleasant. However, everything isn't for everyone and that's why we sample before purchase ( if at all possible ).

Once the base and drydown commence on my skin, Moss that's accentuated by mild amber are more noticeable, while the other listed players never really pop on me. It's not a disappointment however. It seems to be how the base accord is tuned and possibly the desire of the nose responsible to keep a green theme perpetuated. Sillage is moderate, even with heavier sprays with longevity approximately 3 hours on my skin and a bit longer as a skin scent. Not a strong scent, but a pleasant one. Thumbs up from Aromi for Tristano Onofri and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Regine's for Men by Parfums Regine

Bergamot, Galbanum, Green Notes, Lavender, Lemon, Neroli, Pineapple.
Clary Sage, Coriander, Cyclamen, Jasmine, Rose.
Amber, Cedar, Musk.

Every now and then, I run into too much of a good thing. I'm not hating on this blind purchase, but it's giving me the "Damn" factor when in fact, I was hoping for the Wow factor. Yes, it was a blind buy and on a hunch, I pulled the trigger. The listed notes intrigued me for one, while the fact that another release by this house called "JimmyZ" proved to be acceptable. The totality of this scent simply isn't "me", but I'm getting a little ahead of myself here. I may have saved myself the trouble and expense had there been more reviews and information available.

The tuning of implemented notes simply doesn't suit me. Looking at the accords, I held out high hopes that this could be a substantial performer. It performs all right, but the overall aroma doesn't cut it. The fruit note ( pineapple?) and what must be the listed "Cyclamen" are disharmonious on me. There's nothing terrible here, but nothing evolving on my skin evokes sensory enjoyment. Regine's for Men is substantial, almost striking in the opening and yet lacks the pleasure factor.

Yes, there's Green, Lavender, Spice and woodsy herbs. Normally, I love these notes, but not here. Perhaps you would find more redeeming qualities than I. You may also love it because we all interpret differently. This is not a Powerhouse fragrance in spite of it possessing a full nature. Sillage is acceptable with longevity approximately 3 hours on me before morphing into a close scent. Neutral rating from Aromi and I feel I'm being generous. Again, you may disagree, but a sample wear is highly recommended.

Monday, May 26, 2014

Bergamot Vert by Thymes

Bergamot, Cypress, Jasmine, Lemon, Petitgrain, Red Currant, White Musk.

With the warm weather finally here to stay for awhile, it's a habit of mine ( like many others ) to try different citrus oriented scents that are time-appropriate. Not too long ago, I had opportunity to buy Bergamot Vert along with Azur. Having already reviewed Azur, I thought it timely to wear Bergamot Vert a few times in order to get the gist of it.

Truthfully, I've worn it quite a bit as of late and in spite of being linear, the straight forwardness of this fragrance has become endearing. Definitely a spray 'n' go choice for summer, Bergamot Vert succeeds on my skin as a pleasant, casual daytime aroma that performs well in close quarters.

There's not much to dissect here and to over analyze this fragrance would be an exercise in hearing myself talk. It's exactly what the name denotes and what one would expect from a "Bergamot Vert". What I experience is a combination of Bergamot, Neroli and Mandarin. There's the green and zest qualities present and for something of this nature, Bergamot Vert has surprising longevity.

Dedicated citrus scents normally dissipate quickly ( at least on my skin ), so I notice when one affords me some hang time. I'm not insinuating nuclear longevity here folks. I'm happy with the 3 hours I get when wearing this. Naturally, there's a bit more performing as a skin scent. Sillage for Bergamot Vert is average, even with heavier sprays. The entire wearing displays "fresh" and there's no surprises or transitions. Thumbs up from Aromi for Thymes Bergamot Vert and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended in lieu of blind purchase.

Monday, May 19, 2014

Cachet by Matchabelli

Aldehydes, Galbanum, Herbs, Spices.
Jasmine, Orris Root, Patchouli, Rose, Vetiver.
Amber, Civet, Leather, Musk, Oakmoss.

Wearing a fragrance, any fragrance, is different than smelling it on another individual. Since I'm a mature male, it would stand to reason that I've smelled this on women during my lifetime. I was able to snag a bottle of this recently and upon applying it the first time, I truly didn't care for it. To be honest, the opening was a bit too old fashioned and sharp for my current tastes. I remember thinking that I was glad I bought this vintage perfume cheap. $1.50 US for a 99% full bottle completely intact is always a win-win.

I admit to not recognizing the aroma during the duration of the opening. It smelled like a blast from the past, but not something I recall experiencing on the female persuasion. After 5 minutes however, I did an about-face, not only liking the transition but also knowing that I had smelled this before. It was the top accord, fleeting as it is, that I had never experienced. After all, how could I? I have never worn it until now and obviously have never been around someone who just applied it to themselves.

What I found slightly crass and intrusive morphed into something different, softer and assuredly more sensual. From the heart onward, a supple green and earthy tone comes alive that is accented by a mild herbaceousness. Normally, I have no problem with Aldehydes in the top accords, but I simply don't care for it here. Luckily, it lasts only minutes and steps aside to permit the spirit of this fragrance to shine. Even Mrs. Aromi thinks Cachet is "not bad" and normally disdains 99% of what I review.

Once the opening has run its course, the sensual side of Cachet begins to unravel. The presence lowers and seems to hug the body while revealing the heavier notes in this composition. A soft, floral herbaceousness comes to fruition on me, accentuated by a dry rendition of subtle rose. Once the base and drydown commence, moss and musk integrate very politely and permit a nice resiny amber to appear during extended drydown. Sillage is good the initial 5 minutes, then reduces to polite soon after. Longevity is approximately 5 hours on me with a few more as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi, in spite of the opening that I don't care for. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Sunday, May 18, 2014

L'Eau D'Issey by Issey Miyake

Cyclamen, Freesia, Lotus, Melon.
Carnation, Lily, Peony.
Amber, Cedar, Musk, Sandalwood.

L'Eau D'Issey has been around now for a few decades and other than smelling this on others in passing, this is the first time I've gotten to sample it numerous times. My first thoughts are fresh, lucid, feminine and pleasant to be around.

After numerous wearings, I can't say that impression has changed any. I don't find it groundbreaking in any way like some others, but this is a subjective hobby after all. It is a deserving scent though and most assuredly warrants a test run if this genre floats your boat. L'Eau D'Issey isn't over the top feminine, but just enough so that I choose not to wear it.

The first 5 minutes of applying L'Eau D'Issey graces the wearer with a sheer accord consisting of Freesia, suggestions of fruit and an ozonic-green stem quality. I find it bracing, but not necessarily sharp and it only lasts moments before dissipation occurs. There's an aldehydic aspect to this top accord that's short lived as well. A restrained Carnation note is also evident and it gives the composition a much needed edge.

The fruit aspect is another component that dissolves too quickly for my liking, but it may not bother you. I wish it were tuned a little more assertively as to hang around longer in a more noticeable fashion. On my skin, the Freesia, Carnation, Subtle woods, Stem and remnants of ozone are what remain from the heart accord onward. Some reviewers have stated that this is a strong fragrance, but it doesn't perform that way on me. Granted, the skin phase is considerable, but the time allotted to presence and projection is average at best. Perhaps the bottle I've acquired is a reformulation and I say that not knowing if there has been one.....or two....or three.....versions of this. After all, it is decades old.

At any rate, L'Eau D'Issey is a nice fragrance sans the wow factor. Pleasantly unremarkable wouldn't be inaccurate, but I do think more highly of it than that description. It's a good, feminine choice for the warmer months and smells vibrant for an impressive amount of time.

Sillage starts out good, then reduces to average within minutes. Longevity is approximately 3 hours on me ( tops ) before evolving into a personal space scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Miyake's L'Eau D'Issey. A strong recommendation, as always, to sample before purchasing.

Thursday, May 15, 2014

The Visionary by Gap

Caraway, Fennel, Geranium.

One of the Gap Individuals series, The Visionary has been in my wardrobe for years now. I wear it in rotation with all the rest and even now, after all this time, it still smells more like a linear niche offering than it does an economical designer. I have the series and each one is a viable scent that either gender can pull off. While not my favorite of the Individuals series, the Visionary is still something I reach for when I want to smell just a bit different.

The scent is fully developed from the initial application and is the epitome of a linear fragrance. That aside, the Visionary has this persistent quality inherent in the composition that permits it too smell full bodied for an impressive length of time.

What blankets my skin is some heady, herbaceous spice and Geranium. I won't say that this is a conventional rendition of Geranium, but the floral component is there nonetheless and the result is positive. The Visionary somehow conveys a lightness, yet wears much heavier ( at least on me ). It never wavers or transitions. It simply diminishes its volume and presence from the passage of time. I can detect this scent the next day, but the realistic longevity is perhaps 8 hours as a noticeable fragrance. Perhaps something about my skin embellishes The Visionary or it simply possesses impressive hang time. You will have to be your own judge concerning this.

The Individuals by Gap were released in 2007 and as far as I know, consisted of the 5 fragrances I'm familiar with. I could be wrong about the year and if so, my apologies. The Visionary, The Natural, The Original, The Lover and The Artist all seem to have that full bodied texture that could pass for a more upscale item.

Sillage for The Visionary is good and the throw is perfect, for all intents and purposes. Longevity is approximately 8 hours on me, with a few of those being relegated as a personal space scent. It doesn't have the WOW factor for me to love it, but a thumbs up is definitely warranted. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Thymes Azur

White Tea, White Pepper, Water Lily, Jasmine Blossom, Bergamot, Amber, Vanilla.

I recently procured a full 50ml. bottle of this locally. After multiple wears, I've come to the conclusion that the strength lies somewhere between a Body Mist and Eau de Cologne. It doesn't state anything on the bottle, so you'll have to take my word on this. It's simply an educated guess on my part. Azur lags in the presence and longevity departments, but does reveal other, pleasant attributes.

First and foremost, Azur is a fresh and easy to wear scent for either gender. I use the "shared" description often regarding other fragrances, but this is as shared as it gets folks. Yes, Azur is unremarkable, but still finds a way to perform pleasantly and due to its genre, it exhibits versatility. Imagine spritzing on a body mist that's light, enjoyable and will offend absolutely no one ( with the possible exception of someone with allergies ).

The listed accord came from their site. Each time I wear Azur, I experience the Tea, Pepper, subtle citrus and the facsimile of "Water Lily".  The Blossom rendition comes to fruition in the heart accord, more as an interpretation of Sanguine. These particular notes are evident in the opening and middle accords. The Van-Amber in the base is truly minimal at best and would have provided a more interesting outro had it been more noticeable. Still, a pleasant but generic wear that is situation-appropriate when the occasion arises.

I acquired this 1.7oz. bottle extremely cheap ( $2.50 to be exact ) and naturally it's going to retail for much more. Since I'm now acquainted with its aroma and performance, it's well worth what I paid. On the flip side, I wouldn't shell out more than about $8.00 U.S. for a full bottle for the same reasons. Sillage is very moderate and short lived with longevity approximately 1.5 hours before dissipating into a skin scent. Neutral rating from Aromi for Azur by Thymes and a strong suggestion to sample before purchase.

Monday, May 12, 2014

Celebrate by Marilyn Miglin

Frangipani, Jasmine Sambac, Gardenia, Apricot, Magnolia, Aquatic Notes, Mimose, Peony, Teakwood, Musk.

Marilyn Miglin seems to be an interesting woman. She has her hand in the arts, politics and humanitarian endeavors among other things. I've worn this particular fragrance numerous times now and while not exactly celebratory, it's actually a pleasant and inoffensive wear. It's lucid and breezy, but with substance. Celebrate wears like a clean, feminine floral should. There are other facets to it, but the thrust of this scent is to smell casual and enjoyable. There's an underlying stem quality present and I like the fact that the main accord is anchored to this aspect. It seems to lend a vibrancy to the composition.



Celebrate, while sheer, possesses an impressive longevity factor on my skin. After 20 minutes or so, it does become a personal space scent, but with hang time. Upon application, I can't claim to experience transitions as it seems to be fully developed already, but it does morph some once the base accord commences. The foundation is a woody musk with a subtle marine aspect that's rather good. The floral components add accent if nothing else, but they don't bloom on my skin like conventional floral notes. I did take notice that the base and drydown are less gender-specific due to the woods and subtle spicy resins.

Celebrate appears to be one of those spray 'n' go fragrances that will afford you smelling pleasant and be versatile enough to don anywhere, regardless of climate. Sillage is moderate after the first 5 minutes and longevity is approximately 2 hours on me, with many more as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Marilyn Miglin's versatile and comfortable "Celebrate". As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Thursday, May 8, 2014

Exotica by Remy Latour

Black Currant, Mandarin, Cyclamen, Freesia, Muguet, Rose, Fruits, Amber, Cedar, Musk, Sandalwood

Looking at what I consider gaudy packaging, I figured I was in for an unpleasant wear at best and just maybe a scrubber. Amazing how visual stimuli can make me presumptuous about different things I come across. I come to find that, while not a terrific feminine by any means, Exotica is rather pleasant and I enjoyed sampling it. Yes, it is a fruity floral but it wears evenly and has manners. The tuning of Freesia, Red Fruits and Woody Musk are balanced and afford whoever wears this a comfortable experience. I would have no problem being next to a woman who was rocking this.

The rendition of Amber provides a soft resin that's in keeping with the aforementioned. There's not one specific player that jumps out at you once this is developing on the skin. A bit blurred perhaps, but it works. Marketed as an Eau de Parfum, Exotica wears much more like an Eau de Toilette that lacks depth.

The price point for this fragrance, at auction, is a very mixed bag. The normal collusion for pricing is absent and it varies tremendously. That side, my opinion is that this perfume should be sold at extremely economical prices due to totality and quality. Exotica is pleasant and safe, but innocuous enough for me to be unwilling to shell out any serious cash. It does have merit as a feminine scent to wear in warmer months when one doesn't want to spotlight themselves and yet still wear fragrance. Smelling this surely won't cause one to experience an epiphany, but it won't result in anything negative either. Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 4 hours on me. Neutral rating from Aromi for Remy Latour's Exotica and as always, a strong recommendation to sample before purchase.

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Pecksniff's Classic for Men EDT

Bergamot, Lemon, Cassis, Clary Sage, Armoise, Clove, Lavender, Musk.

Awhile back, I picked up a few bottles at a local retailer and among them was Classic by Pecksniff's. My initial wearing gave me the impression of "safe" and staying within the perceptions of what we have become accustomed to in "classic" masculines. We all have first impressions of everything we encounter and in hindsight, I know I was only partially correct.

Classic is a somewhat contemporary take on what I have smelled countless times in my younger days. It breaks no new ground, isn't edgy or exciting. Still, I find it a viable scent after numerous full wearings simply because it possesses a lighter feel, coupled with the fresh aspect that's commonplace in current releases. It's an easy yet forgettable wear. I suppose not all fragrance needs to make a statement.

Classic, at least on my skin, wears more like a body mist than a conventional EDT. It does however stay around a considerable amount of time, but close to the body with minimal projection. It's linear and comes out of the bottle already unraveled.

The first few minutes afford an enjoyable citric with subtle accents of lavender. You can already detect the slightly sweet floral and herbs incorporated into the accord. The spice is well integrated in this as well and all this plays out atop its musky base. The "transition" for me is the volume and presence lowering, with the aroma staying the same as when it was first applied.

Classic is a simple, masculine fragrance that you will either find enjoyable enough to wear or possibly a bit mature. As for me, I paid a very economical price for it, so I have no beef. Had I paid retail, it would be a different story. Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 3-4 hours on my skin and it wears close. Neutral rating from Aromi with a strong suggestion to sample before purchase.

Monday, April 28, 2014

Satyr by Bud Parfums

Labdanum, Oakmoss, Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Patchouli, Galbanum, Nutmeg, Vetiver.

The very first impression I experienced during the initial wearing of Satyr was "classic". Immediately following that was that it was somewhat reminiscent of KL Homme. It's the combination of sweet, spice and earth tones that are making this comparison come to fruition.

No, it's not a clone folks. There are other masculines I've smelled and ones I own that can claim that as well. That said, let it be known that this is a masculine fragrance and possibly a bit of a stretch for the ladies to pull off comfortably.

Satyr, on my skin at least, exhibits a concentrated feel. It's bold, has depth and you can tell from the top accord that this fragrance has longevity. It assuredly wears stronger than most EDT's and even in the heart accord and beyond, I still can smell the relationship to KL Homme. Trust me when I say that it is not a drawback. I happen to enjoy this particular ratio of Blossom, Nutmeg and Patchouli.

Others have mentioned the floral rendition that exists through the life of the scent. Personally, the Jasmine never blooms for me but may be more evident for others. What comes alive on my skin is what I've already mentioned; namely Blossom, Spices and Earth augmented with a nice amount of sweet. Sillage is good with longevity approximately 5 hours and even more as a close scent. As I wear this, I'm persuaded to believe that this would perform rather nicely during the colder months. Thumbs up from Aromi for Stayr by Bud Parfums and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

CK be by Calvin Klein

Bergamot, Lavender, Mint, Juniper, Mandarin, Menthol, Green Notes.
Jasmine, Orchid, Freesia, Herbs, Magnolia, Peach.
Cedar, Amber, Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood, Opoponax.

When I finally purchased a bottle of CK be at my local TJMAXX, I had never had the opportunity to wear it before. Another blind buy and another chance to be disappointed. The odds aren't all that good, considering that Calvin isn't exactly an impressive fragrance house to purchase in this fashion. There are some CK releases I like, some I don't, with the remaining ones falling into the "who cares" category. CK be lands in the middle somewhere. It's pleasant and unremarkable. Sound familiar?

That said, the price point for this 100ml. bottle justified my leaving the store with it. In spite of my now finding it somewhat innocuous, I would buy it again for the price I paid. I suppose my biggest beef with CK be is it simply doesn't last long enough. The opening is enjoyable and the transition, revealing the rendition of Opoponax, is definitely to my liking. However, it seems to travel light and doesn't stick around to pay the check.

The opening is a good salutation of blended Citrus, Lavender, Freesia and a subtle green aspect. I can't say I experience a legit menthol quality because I don't, but the initial 10 minutes does afford me the 2 transitions that embody CK be. The heart, base and beyond see a balsam, mild spice, ongoing Freesia and a mix of Lavender-Vanilla-Musk evolve. This accord has substance without volume or presence. That would be satisfactory if it simply had longevity. Sadly, it does not.

CK be dissipates much too quickly into an extremely close skin scent. As not to exaggerate, I would feel good in stating approximately 1.5 hours of longevity before morphing into a nose-to-skin situation. Now, it could be that my skin drinks this up like a sponge, but I'm persuaded that it just lacks strength. This opinion is after applying rather heavy sprays.

Sillage is moderate and I've already covered its deficiency. CK be smells pleasant and harmless, but has no teeth. Neutral rating from Aromi with a strong suggestion to sample before purchasing.

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Gap The Lover

Apricot, Mint Leaves, Patchouli.

I've been meaning to snag a bottle of this for a few years now and I finally got around to it. To be exact, I purchased 2 NIB 50ml. on auction because the price was perfect. Lo and behold, when they arrived, both sprayers were damaged and 25% of each bottle had leaked. I own a few Gap Individual fragrances and while they don't have "quality" spray mechanisms, none have this defect. I really wanted to keep one of these unopened, but oh well..........

That frustration aside, I decided to keep them and simply decant what remained into a good sized atomizer and call it good. I did so mainly because The Lover smells nice. This is a fruitchouli that has a little more going on than the 3 listed notes. There's a mild citrus in the opening accord, yet I experience no mint or mentholated quality whatsoever. The first few minutes however reveal a pleasant Bergamot mingled with a "fruit" aspect that I don't recognize as Apricot, but who cares. Whatever it really is, I like it. It plays nicely off the evaporating citrus and oncoming Patchouli. This version of Patch has a mild smoke incorporated into it.

The volume and presence of Gap The Lover is moderate, but the aroma is rather full bodied. It's safe to say that it has substance up close, but lacks serious projection. Personally, I think that's a "plus" in this case and enjoy the manner in which it performs. It's simplistic, pleasant and has a rendition of patchouli that's on the mild side with a very subtle smoke and all the while, leaning a bit sweet. For me, what's not to like?

Now, great it's not. It does have quality though and with its price point ( if you're patient ), is an intelligent purchase. It's sensual while having the ability to be worn by either gender with no qualms at all. I have been enjoying it more than I thought I would. I also find it to be a good, close quarter scent with enough versatility to succeed in numerous situations, from personal, social to economic. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 3 hours on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for Gap's The Lover with a strong recommendation to sample before purchase.

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Magic Nights by Marilyn Miglin

Bergamot, Mandarin, Blackcurrant, Jasmine, Cloves, Narcissus, Ylang-Ylang, Vetiver, Amber, Bourbon Vanilla.

The mini I am sampling is an Eau de Parfum. I picked up this 11ml. splash locally along with 5 others in a Miglin set. They were all new and from what I can smell, completely intact and well kept. I can't say the "strength" is exactly in keeping of EDP's I normally encounter, but that may be me splitting hairs. The overall aroma is surprisingly good, feminine and fresh. It's not as spicy as I had anticipated and that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Magic Nights seems to be tuned for low impact, but it's still capable of making an impression. This is a floriental, with an emphasis on the floral components.

The citric rendition in the opening accord is fleeting and soon gives deference to its floral heart. Whatever spices that do come to fruition are accentuating features at best. They embellish the well mannered green, foliage and soft violet tones that make up the heart of Magic Nights. The blending is such that nothing in particular jumps out at you. You simply recognize "floral" and resist the need to analyze further.

The floral quality of Magic Nights is the essence of the scent. The lack of presence from Amber and Vanilla in the base was a bit disappointing for me, but the totality is still acceptable. It could have been a very pleasant and fitting send off, but it simply doesn't transpire on my skin after multiple wearings. As such, Magic Nights feels "unfinished" and seems content to display its heart for the life of the scent.

Sillage is average with longevity approximately 3-4 hours, depending upon how heavily one applies it. Positive-Neutral rating from Aromi and a strong recommendation to sample before purchase.

Thursday, April 17, 2014

38°N 16°E by Richard Luscher Britos

Bergamot Oil, Orange Blossom, Sandalwood, Incense.

Easily the most simplistic of the Terroir releases, 38°N 16°E is all about Bergamot. Dedicated citrus fragrances aren't for everyone and in spite of the listed Blossom, Sandalwood and Incense, this creation is, at least on my skin, an experience of straight up Bergamot.

The opening is a beautiful rendition of Blossom and Bergamot, but within 3 minutes the Blossom winds down and allows Bergamot front and center position. I've said it before and will reiterate that Blossom has a tendency to gain momentum and take over a large portion of a composition. Not so with 38°N 16°E.

The vibrancy of the top accord, although fleeting, is one of the things that keeps me sampling manifold fragrances. It's so bright and succinct that, whatever follows it is destined to be ( at least ) a slight disappointment. What the wearer has to understand is that 38°N 16°E is an uncomplicated citrus creation. This genre is not known for otherwordly sillage, nor do they normally possess impressive hang time. 38°N 16°E doesn't deviate from this protocol and it's okay. I'm a fan of this category and 38°N 16°E is just as good or better than many of them.

After 20 minutes or a little better, subtle blossom seems to re-emerge and accent the lingering Bergamot. The listed Woods and Smoke are pretty much M.I.A. on my skin, but perhaps others will detect these more clearly than I. If they are in the mix, they are tuned much too passively to have their voices heard. There is something bolstering the Bergamot, but it's not a conventional rendition of Sandalwood as I know it.

Frankincense, like its co-conspirator, simply isn't loud enough to have a say in this release. In extended drydown, you may experience a ghostly whiff of it if you focus, but I prefer not to work that hard when I'm wearing something for enjoyment. Still, I find 38°N 16°E a pleasant and viable Citrus scent that YOU will have to make up your own minds about. Thumbs up from Aromi for 38°N 16°E, but with a caution. In this case, as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

14°S-48°E by Richard Luscher Britos

Ylang-Ylang, Mandarin, Pink Peppercorn, Cocoa, Vetiver, Vanilla, Roasted Corn.

A cacophony of bitter and sweet spiciness wash over you as soon as you apply 14°S-48°E. The combination of what must be Mandarin peel integrated with Ylang is an extraordinary aroma. I can't say it's the most pleasant accord I've smelled, because it isn't. However, it sure is interesting and after 5 minutes, the insertion of vetiver into the transition enhances that feeling. The opening accord is a bit Lutenesque on my skin, but 14°S-48°E evolves quickly enough that my comparison is a fleeting memory. These are earth tones implemented well, but unless you have a proclivity for these elements, this may only garner your respect.

At its very essence, 14°S-48°E is a vetiver fragrance that attempts to appeal to the sensibilities of both genders. To me, it still leans masculine, but it's not as overtly so as others featuring this note. There's a smokiness that almost gives the illusion of incense, but it's more subtle and derives from whatever ingredients constitute "roasted corn", along with the vetiver note. All in all, 14°S-48°E is more enjoyable than I had anticipated and a worthy contender.

 The only drawback I can find while sampling 14°S-48°E is that it dissipates to a skin scent much too quickly for my liking. Since I'm only wearing a small amount, it's difficult to tell if healthy sprays would correct this. Even so, with the amount I applied, I expected to get better results and that didn't transpire. I can usually get a good bead on other samplings using similar applications, so I am persuaded to state what I believe is true.

Notwithstanding, 14°S-48°E is an enjoyable wear and the unique opening accord is a standout to me. So is the smokiness and the subtle, nutty quality of the vetiver rendition. In spite of the presence dying down within 2 hours or less, the personal space aroma is very good. This, could in fact be a favorable aspect for those looking for a fragrance that performs in this manner. There's no doubt it would work well in an office setting or the like. Sillage is moderate and I've already declared longevity. Still, thumbs up from Aromi for 14°S-48°E with a strong suggestion to sample first in lieu of purchase.