Wednesday, February 25, 2015
Funny how certain renditions of a particular "note" get burned into our aroma-memory and are forever aligned with a particular house or perfumer. Case in point is the patchouli implemented in Black Oud. It is reminiscent of Molinard's rendition. Not exactly the same, but definitely associated to one another.
Black Oud, on my skin at least, is not about oud. While linear, it focuses on woods and patchouli that are lightly accentuated by spice and a hint of smoke. This could have aptly been named Patchouli Noir Sport and I wouldn't have batted an eye.
Black Oud wears linear on me after numerous full wearings. After a few minutes, the version of Agarwood is downplayed and reminds me more of a barbershop-agar accord than anything else. It's not a "negative", but not something I expected. At any rate, the totality smells good and matches, if not exceeds, its own price point.
The base accord exhibits subtle spice and hints at smoke intermittently. The woods, patch and earth tones remain from beginning to end. Sillage for Black Oud is average or possibly slightly above and longevity, on my skin, is approximately 4-5 hours before morphing into a personal space scent. You'll be able to detect this 10 plus hours later. Thumbs up from Aromi for Black Oud by Les Senteurs and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Cloves, Iris, Sandalwood, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang.
Agarwood, Amber, Castoreum, Caramel, Immortelle, Heliotrope, Musk, Tolu Balsam, Vetiver.
Bertrand Duchaufour's resume is.......let's just say impressive. The lists of his creations are too numerous to mention and when I recall his contributions, I think of transparency, well executed and memorable. Collection Excessive's Oud for Love is yet another worthy interpretation of the oud genre, courtesy of Bertrand. This man has skills and the uncanny ability to take an idea, shape it mentally and then manifest it in a liquid delivery system in order for you and I to not only to "see" it,but to experience it as well. I've found some similarities in Oud for Love and Ameer Al Oudh. Their themes are related and Bertrands version is airborne and clear, whereas the Lattafa is weightier and perhaps slightly less versatile because of this. I happen to like both, but Oud for Love is the more luxurious and elegant of the two after numerous comparisons.
I purchased a bottle of Oud for Love in order to experience full wearings. In truth, I like it more each wearing. There's much going on in this aroma, yet it does so without yelling. The tuning of notes is the magic here. It's the difference between a guitar riff being played legato instead of staccato. Effortless and fluid from initial spray to comfortable drydown. The use of clove here is actually masterful. Playing off other spice qualities and Tuberose, I experience a mild herbaceousness because of it. The other players, who I normally attempt to identify and extol, one way or the other, are present and accounted for, but so well orchestrated that you simply need to sample this and decide for yourself. I cannot help but recommend this if you're looking to try an elegant oud that won't make you choose between it and paying your rent.
Sillage is polite as you would expect, but still smells full in your personal space. Longevity is yet another deceiving attribute. You can detect this the next morning rather easily, but during the wearings, expect 5 hours. Thumbs up from Aromi for Oud for Love by The Different Company. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Sunday, February 22, 2015
A tolerable blast of alcohol rushes out of the sprayer when applying this very pleasant Arabian creation. Take heart though, because it departs as quickly as a deadbeat dad called upon to write a check for his monthly child support payment.
As a fragrance accumulator and overall lover of scent, I've been trying to intelligently sift through the tidal wave of oud releases that have bombarded our shores and internet clutches the last few years.
Naturally, it's making an impact on my wardrobe as well, but there's always the risk of bad blind buys when pulling the trigger on full bottles because samples are not available. Yea....I've made a few disappointing purchases, but this isn't one of them. Instead of a CPO, this is western style and yet it manages to wear like a CPO delivery system, but not quite as heavy. Bottom line is that, on my skin, Ameer Al Oudh is a deep woody oud, sans the skank and complimented by a subtle gourmand and petrol quality. Is labdanum, one of my favorite accomplices, in this brew? It's hard for me to tell since Ameer Al Oudh is dense and blurred. Besides that, who cares if the totality smells good.
Sillage is above average for an hour then settles to a polite throw. Longevity is what you would expect and has a hang time on me for about 5 hours before lasting another 5 as a personal space scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Ameer Al Oudh and as always, a sample wear is recommended, if at all possible.
Wednesday, February 18, 2015
Pinewood, Tobacco, Immortelle, Geranium, Agarwood, Chinese Cedar Wood.
Vetiver, Sandalwood, Amber, Smoke, Leather, Musks.
Mrs. Aromi and I could not possibly be more different when it comes to processing aromas we encounter. 99% of what I like, she naturally dislikes.....or hates outright. It's an amazing thing. Rhinoceros by Paul Kiler is a case in point. She says " It smells like a funky mens locker room", whilst I interpret it as a slightly boozy, woody leather with smoke. To drive this home. his other release called "PANDA" is one she delights herself in, yet I experience a borderline urinous accord the entire wearing. Suffice it to say I did not enjoy that one.........
There's an approximate 2-3 minute window, immediately following application, that I can detect almost every listed note. Almost as quickly, that clarity vanishes and is replaced by a heavier, denser quality and aroma. This begins the heart of Rhinoceros and it pumps the suggestion of whiskey soaked suede, pepper, moist earth and forest woods that have been permanently altered by heat and fire. From the initial, subtle smokiness, a charred leather rears its head and supplants the suede that manifested only moments earlier. These were noticeable transitions and I enjoyed trying to analyze them in real time.
Sillage is average or slightly better than that, with longevity approximately 4-5 hours on my skin before turning into a skin scent for just as long. This accomplished with moderate sprays. Thumbs up from Aromi for Paul Kiler's Rhinoceros and as you would expect, a sample wear is recommend before purchase.
Sunday, June 22, 2014
Geranium, Jasmine, Muguet, Rose, Sandalwood.
Amber, Cedar, Leather, Moss, Musk, Tonka, Vanilla.
First, a shout out to my friend Henry Ong ( aka XMEN and mrscentman) for my recent purchase of Tristano Onofri. Thanks again Henry. As always, it was a pleasure to deal with an honest, reputable human being such as yourself. Suffice it to say that the items were completely intact and stored properly. My first encounter with Tristano came sometime in 2008 and if memory serves, I received that bottle from Henry as well. Tristano Onofri is a dignified masculine that flirts with woods, fougere and oriental. I suppose I wouldn't be remiss if I stated it's a Woody Fougiental. Regardless of its category, the important things are overall aroma and performance.
Blurred or well blended, depending upon how you want to look at it, there's contributions from many players without any one note overtaking the composition. On my skin, the suggestion of green bouquet, mild spice and a woody undertow come to the fore and stay prevalent until the drydown stage. Sure, there are noticeable nuances from others in the accords, but I'm simply describing what flourishes on me. What I notice most is that Tristano simply smells good and leans perhaps a tad formal. This would surely perform admirably in close quarters.
Once the base and drydown commence on my skin, Moss that's accentuated by mild amber are more noticeable, while the other listed players never really pop on me. It's not a disappointment however. It seems to be how the base accord is tuned and possibly the desire of the nose responsible to keep a green theme perpetuated. Sillage is moderate, even with heavier sprays with longevity approximately 3 hours on my skin and a bit longer as a skin scent. Not a strong scent, but a pleasant one. Thumbs up from Aromi for Tristano Onofri and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Tuesday, May 27, 2014
Clary Sage, Coriander, Cyclamen, Jasmine, Rose.
Amber, Cedar, Musk.
Every now and then, I run into too much of a good thing. I'm not hating on this blind purchase, but it's giving me the "Damn" factor when in fact, I was hoping for the Wow factor. Yes, it was a blind buy and on a hunch, I pulled the trigger. The listed notes intrigued me for one, while the fact that another release by this house called "JimmyZ" proved to be acceptable. The totality of this scent simply isn't "me", but I'm getting a little ahead of myself here. I may have saved myself the trouble and expense had there been more reviews and information available.
Yes, there's Green, Lavender, Spice and woodsy herbs. Normally, I love these notes, but not here. Perhaps you would find more redeeming qualities than I. You may also love it because we all interpret differently. This is not a Powerhouse fragrance in spite of it possessing a full nature. Sillage is acceptable with longevity approximately 3 hours on me before morphing into a close scent. Neutral rating from Aromi and I feel I'm being generous. Again, you may disagree, but a sample wear is highly recommended.
Monday, May 26, 2014
With the warm weather finally here to stay for awhile, it's a habit of mine ( like many others ) to try different citrus oriented scents that are time-appropriate. Not too long ago, I had opportunity to buy Bergamot Vert along with Azur. Having already reviewed Azur, I thought it timely to wear Bergamot Vert a few times in order to get the gist of it.
Truthfully, I've worn it quite a bit as of late and in spite of being linear, the straight forwardness of this fragrance has become endearing. Definitely a spray 'n' go choice for summer, Bergamot Vert succeeds on my skin as a pleasant, casual daytime aroma that performs well in close quarters.
Dedicated citrus scents normally dissipate quickly ( at least on my skin ), so I notice when one affords me some hang time. I'm not insinuating nuclear longevity here folks. I'm happy with the 3 hours I get when wearing this. Naturally, there's a bit more performing as a skin scent. Sillage for Bergamot Vert is average, even with heavier sprays. The entire wearing displays "fresh" and there's no surprises or transitions. Thumbs up from Aromi for Thymes Bergamot Vert and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended in lieu of blind purchase.
Monday, May 19, 2014
Jasmine, Orris Root, Patchouli, Rose, Vetiver.
Amber, Civet, Leather, Musk, Oakmoss.
Wearing a fragrance, any fragrance, is different than smelling it on another individual. Since I'm a mature male, it would stand to reason that I've smelled this on women during my lifetime. I was able to snag a bottle of this recently and upon applying it the first time, I truly didn't care for it. To be honest, the opening was a bit too old fashioned and sharp for my current tastes. I remember thinking that I was glad I bought this vintage perfume cheap. $1.50 US for a 99% full bottle completely intact is always a win-win.
What I found slightly crass and intrusive morphed into something different, softer and assuredly more sensual. From the heart onward, a supple green and earthy tone comes alive that is accented by a mild herbaceousness. Normally, I have no problem with Aldehydes in the top accords, but I simply don't care for it here. Luckily, it lasts only minutes and steps aside to permit the spirit of this fragrance to shine. Even Mrs. Aromi thinks Cachet is "not bad" and normally disdains 99% of what I review.
Sunday, May 18, 2014
Carnation, Lily, Peony.
Amber, Cedar, Musk, Sandalwood.
L'Eau D'Issey has been around now for a few decades and other than smelling this on others in passing, this is the first time I've gotten to sample it numerous times. My first thoughts are fresh, lucid, feminine and pleasant to be around.
After numerous wearings, I can't say that impression has changed any. I don't find it groundbreaking in any way like some others, but this is a subjective hobby after all. It is a deserving scent though and most assuredly warrants a test run if this genre floats your boat. L'Eau D'Issey isn't over the top feminine, but just enough so that I choose not to wear it.
The fruit aspect is another component that dissolves too quickly for my liking, but it may not bother you. I wish it were tuned a little more assertively as to hang around longer in a more noticeable fashion. On my skin, the Freesia, Carnation, Subtle woods, Stem and remnants of ozone are what remain from the heart accord onward. Some reviewers have stated that this is a strong fragrance, but it doesn't perform that way on me. Granted, the skin phase is considerable, but the time allotted to presence and projection is average at best. Perhaps the bottle I've acquired is a reformulation and I say that not knowing if there has been one.....or two....or three.....versions of this. After all, it is decades old.
Sillage starts out good, then reduces to average within minutes. Longevity is approximately 3 hours on me ( tops ) before evolving into a personal space scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Miyake's L'Eau D'Issey. A strong recommendation, as always, to sample before purchasing.
Thursday, May 15, 2014
One of the Gap Individuals series, The Visionary has been in my wardrobe for years now. I wear it in rotation with all the rest and even now, after all this time, it still smells more like a linear niche offering than it does an economical designer. I have the series and each one is a viable scent that either gender can pull off. While not my favorite of the Individuals series, the Visionary is still something I reach for when I want to smell just a bit different.
What blankets my skin is some heady, herbaceous spice and Geranium. I won't say that this is a conventional rendition of Geranium, but the floral component is there nonetheless and the result is positive. The Visionary somehow conveys a lightness, yet wears much heavier ( at least on me ). It never wavers or transitions. It simply diminishes its volume and presence from the passage of time. I can detect this scent the next day, but the realistic longevity is perhaps 8 hours as a noticeable fragrance. Perhaps something about my skin embellishes The Visionary or it simply possesses impressive hang time. You will have to be your own judge concerning this.
Sillage for The Visionary is good and the throw is perfect, for all intents and purposes. Longevity is approximately 8 hours on me, with a few of those being relegated as a personal space scent. It doesn't have the WOW factor for me to love it, but a thumbs up is definitely warranted. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Tuesday, May 13, 2014
I recently procured a full 50ml. bottle of this locally. After multiple wears, I've come to the conclusion that the strength lies somewhere between a Body Mist and Eau de Cologne. It doesn't state anything on the bottle, so you'll have to take my word on this. It's simply an educated guess on my part. Azur lags in the presence and longevity departments, but does reveal other, pleasant attributes.
First and foremost, Azur is a fresh and easy to wear scent for either gender. I use the "shared" description often regarding other fragrances, but this is as shared as it gets folks. Yes, Azur is unremarkable, but still finds a way to perform pleasantly and due to its genre, it exhibits versatility. Imagine spritzing on a body mist that's light, enjoyable and will offend absolutely no one ( with the possible exception of someone with allergies ).
I acquired this 1.7oz. bottle extremely cheap ( $2.50 to be exact ) and naturally it's going to retail for much more. Since I'm now acquainted with its aroma and performance, it's well worth what I paid. On the flip side, I wouldn't shell out more than about $8.00 U.S. for a full bottle for the same reasons. Sillage is very moderate and short lived with longevity approximately 1.5 hours before dissipating into a skin scent. Neutral rating from Aromi for Azur by Thymes and a strong suggestion to sample before purchase.
Monday, May 12, 2014
Marilyn Miglin seems to be an interesting woman. She has her hand in the arts, politics and humanitarian endeavors among other things. I've worn this particular fragrance numerous times now and while not exactly celebratory, it's actually a pleasant and inoffensive wear. It's lucid and breezy, but with substance. Celebrate wears like a clean, feminine floral should. There are other facets to it, but the thrust of this scent is to smell casual and enjoyable. There's an underlying stem quality present and I like the fact that the main accord is anchored to this aspect. It seems to lend a vibrancy to the composition.
Celebrate, while sheer, possesses an impressive longevity factor on my skin. After 20 minutes or so, it does become a personal space scent, but with hang time. Upon application, I can't claim to experience transitions as it seems to be fully developed already, but it does morph some once the base accord commences. The foundation is a woody musk with a subtle marine aspect that's rather good. The floral components add accent if nothing else, but they don't bloom on my skin like conventional floral notes. I did take notice that the base and drydown are less gender-specific due to the woods and subtle spicy resins.
Thursday, May 8, 2014
Looking at what I consider gaudy packaging, I figured I was in for an unpleasant wear at best and just maybe a scrubber. Amazing how visual stimuli can make me presumptuous about different things I come across. I come to find that, while not a terrific feminine by any means, Exotica is rather pleasant and I enjoyed sampling it. Yes, it is a fruity floral but it wears evenly and has manners. The tuning of Freesia, Red Fruits and Woody Musk are balanced and afford whoever wears this a comfortable experience. I would have no problem being next to a woman who was rocking this.
The price point for this fragrance, at auction, is a very mixed bag. The normal collusion for pricing is absent and it varies tremendously. That side, my opinion is that this perfume should be sold at extremely economical prices due to totality and quality. Exotica is pleasant and safe, but innocuous enough for me to be unwilling to shell out any serious cash. It does have merit as a feminine scent to wear in warmer months when one doesn't want to spotlight themselves and yet still wear fragrance. Smelling this surely won't cause one to experience an epiphany, but it won't result in anything negative either. Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 4 hours on me. Neutral rating from Aromi for Remy Latour's Exotica and as always, a strong recommendation to sample before purchase.
Tuesday, May 6, 2014
Awhile back, I picked up a few bottles at a local retailer and among them was Classic by Pecksniff's. My initial wearing gave me the impression of "safe" and staying within the perceptions of what we have become accustomed to in "classic" masculines. We all have first impressions of everything we encounter and in hindsight, I know I was only partially correct.
Classic is a somewhat contemporary take on what I have smelled countless times in my younger days. It breaks no new ground, isn't edgy or exciting. Still, I find it a viable scent after numerous full wearings simply because it possesses a lighter feel, coupled with the fresh aspect that's commonplace in current releases. It's an easy yet forgettable wear. I suppose not all fragrance needs to make a statement.
The first few minutes afford an enjoyable citric with subtle accents of lavender. You can already detect the slightly sweet floral and herbs incorporated into the accord. The spice is well integrated in this as well and all this plays out atop its musky base. The "transition" for me is the volume and presence lowering, with the aroma staying the same as when it was first applied.
Classic is a simple, masculine fragrance that you will either find enjoyable enough to wear or possibly a bit mature. As for me, I paid a very economical price for it, so I have no beef. Had I paid retail, it would be a different story. Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 3-4 hours on my skin and it wears close. Neutral rating from Aromi with a strong suggestion to sample before purchase.
Monday, April 28, 2014
The very first impression I experienced during the initial wearing of Satyr was "classic". Immediately following that was that it was somewhat reminiscent of KL Homme. It's the combination of sweet, spice and earth tones that are making this comparison come to fruition.
No, it's not a clone folks. There are other masculines I've smelled and ones I own that can claim that as well. That said, let it be known that this is a masculine fragrance and possibly a bit of a stretch for the ladies to pull off comfortably.
Others have mentioned the floral rendition that exists through the life of the scent. Personally, the Jasmine never blooms for me but may be more evident for others. What comes alive on my skin is what I've already mentioned; namely Blossom, Spices and Earth augmented with a nice amount of sweet. Sillage is good with longevity approximately 5 hours and even more as a close scent. As I wear this, I'm persuaded to believe that this would perform rather nicely during the colder months. Thumbs up from Aromi for Stayr by Bud Parfums and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Jasmine, Orchid, Freesia, Herbs, Magnolia, Peach.
Cedar, Amber, Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood, Opoponax.
When I finally purchased a bottle of CK be at my local TJMAXX, I had never had the opportunity to wear it before. Another blind buy and another chance to be disappointed. The odds aren't all that good, considering that Calvin isn't exactly an impressive fragrance house to purchase in this fashion. There are some CK releases I like, some I don't, with the remaining ones falling into the "who cares" category. CK be lands in the middle somewhere. It's pleasant and unremarkable. Sound familiar?
The opening is a good salutation of blended Citrus, Lavender, Freesia and a subtle green aspect. I can't say I experience a legit menthol quality because I don't, but the initial 10 minutes does afford me the 2 transitions that embody CK be. The heart, base and beyond see a balsam, mild spice, ongoing Freesia and a mix of Lavender-Vanilla-Musk evolve. This accord has substance without volume or presence. That would be satisfactory if it simply had longevity. Sadly, it does not.
Sillage is moderate and I've already covered its deficiency. CK be smells pleasant and harmless, but has no teeth. Neutral rating from Aromi with a strong suggestion to sample before purchasing.
Wednesday, April 23, 2014
I've been meaning to snag a bottle of this for a few years now and I finally got around to it. To be exact, I purchased 2 NIB 50ml. on auction because the price was perfect. Lo and behold, when they arrived, both sprayers were damaged and 25% of each bottle had leaked. I own a few Gap Individual fragrances and while they don't have "quality" spray mechanisms, none have this defect. I really wanted to keep one of these unopened, but oh well..........
Now, great it's not. It does have quality though and with its price point ( if you're patient ), is an intelligent purchase. It's sensual while having the ability to be worn by either gender with no qualms at all. I have been enjoying it more than I thought I would. I also find it to be a good, close quarter scent with enough versatility to succeed in numerous situations, from personal, social to economic. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 3 hours on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for Gap's The Lover with a strong recommendation to sample before purchase.
Tuesday, April 22, 2014
The mini I am sampling is an Eau de Parfum. I picked up this 11ml. splash locally along with 5 others in a Miglin set. They were all new and from what I can smell, completely intact and well kept. I can't say the "strength" is exactly in keeping of EDP's I normally encounter, but that may be me splitting hairs. The overall aroma is surprisingly good, feminine and fresh. It's not as spicy as I had anticipated and that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Magic Nights seems to be tuned for low impact, but it's still capable of making an impression. This is a floriental, with an emphasis on the floral components.
The floral quality of Magic Nights is the essence of the scent. The lack of presence from Amber and Vanilla in the base was a bit disappointing for me, but the totality is still acceptable. It could have been a very pleasant and fitting send off, but it simply doesn't transpire on my skin after multiple wearings. As such, Magic Nights feels "unfinished" and seems content to display its heart for the life of the scent.
Sillage is average with longevity approximately 3-4 hours, depending upon how heavily one applies it. Positive-Neutral rating from Aromi and a strong recommendation to sample before purchase.
Thursday, April 17, 2014
Easily the most simplistic of the Terroir releases, 38°N 16°E is all about Bergamot. Dedicated citrus fragrances aren't for everyone and in spite of the listed Blossom, Sandalwood and Incense, this creation is, at least on my skin, an experience of straight up Bergamot.
The opening is a beautiful rendition of Blossom and Bergamot, but within 3 minutes the Blossom winds down and allows Bergamot front and center position. I've said it before and will reiterate that Blossom has a tendency to gain momentum and take over a large portion of a composition. Not so with 38°N 16°E.
Frankincense, like its co-conspirator, simply isn't loud enough to have a say in this release. In extended drydown, you may experience a ghostly whiff of it if you focus, but I prefer not to work that hard when I'm wearing something for enjoyment. Still, I find 38°N 16°E a pleasant and viable Citrus scent that YOU will have to make up your own minds about. Thumbs up from Aromi for 38°N 16°E, but with a caution. In this case, as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Wednesday, April 16, 2014
A cacophony of bitter and sweet spiciness wash over you as soon as you apply 14°S-48°E. The combination of what must be Mandarin peel integrated with Ylang is an extraordinary aroma. I can't say it's the most pleasant accord I've smelled, because it isn't. However, it sure is interesting and after 5 minutes, the insertion of vetiver into the transition enhances that feeling. The opening accord is a bit Lutenesque on my skin, but 14°S-48°E evolves quickly enough that my comparison is a fleeting memory. These are earth tones implemented well, but unless you have a proclivity for these elements, this may only garner your respect.
Notwithstanding, 14°S-48°E is an enjoyable wear and the unique opening accord is a standout to me. So is the smokiness and the subtle, nutty quality of the vetiver rendition. In spite of the presence dying down within 2 hours or less, the personal space aroma is very good. This, could in fact be a favorable aspect for those looking for a fragrance that performs in this manner. There's no doubt it would work well in an office setting or the like. Sillage is moderate and I've already declared longevity. Still, thumbs up from Aromi for 14°S-48°E with a strong suggestion to sample first in lieu of purchase.