Il Mondi Odore Perfume Reviews

Il Mondi Odore Perfume Reviews

Saturday, November 21, 2015

Perry Ellis Oud Vetiver Royale Absolute

Black Pepper, Haitian Vetiver, Juniper, Agarwood, Indonesian Patchouli, Atlas Cedar.

I can say that this release has an extremely fancy name and decent bottle to go with it. I made the statement on a fragrance site that I believed this to be mundane and naturally, as is expected, there are those who disagree.

That's fine since the cliche "it's a subjective hobby" holds water. Now, Oud Vetiver Royale isn't a bad scent. It is mundane on this wearer  however and if you are expecting any semblance of the "wow" factor, you will be disappointed. I suppose my biggest beef is that projection is low on me and the "noticeable" longevity is only a few hours before morphing into a veritable skin scent.

For those who like the earthiness and woods of this genre, you'll probably enjoy this. Oud Vetiver Royale never changes from the initial spray and at least to me, smells exactly the same in the extended drydown as it did the first few minutes; albeit at a lower presence.

Neutral rating from Aromi for Perry Ellis Oud Vetiver Royale Absolute. It's not bad, nor is it exciting. To this nose, it's the "meh" factor.

Friday, November 6, 2015

Grit & Poise by West Third Brand

Lemon, Muguet, Amber, Labdanum, Olibanum, Incense, Patchouli, Vanilla Bean.

Grit & Poise goes on a bit oily for starters. I just thought I should point that out. The vanilla is prominent from the initial application. There's also some balsam and resins in there for good measure. The opening accord is actually very nice; not overtly sweet and to me, gender neutral.

Like others from this house, there's not much in the way of transitions and goes on fully developed. I'm not sure if Poise & Grit separates itself enough from the many others in this genre to grab hold of the wearer. It's a pleasant wear, but so are thousands of others.

This has the base to accommodate some interesting things for a prelude, but it chooses not to. The base is "safe", yet sometimes making no waves is as bad as making the wrong ones. I suppose Poise & Grit feels "incomplete" to me and at the same time smells nice. Suffice it so say that if you like your Vanilla accented with Labdanum and Resin, this should be sampled.

Sillage is good with longevity approximately 6 hours on me and longer as a skin scent. Neutral rating from Aromi since this didn't live up to its potential. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Tuesday, November 3, 2015

The Aoud by Mancera

Bergamot, Clove, Cinnamon, White Pepper, Rose Petals, Geranium, Saffron, Oud, Smoky Wood, Cedar, Sandalwood, Animalics, Leather, White Musk.

For all the listed notes in The Aoud by Mancera, it comes out of the sprayer almost completely developed. The interplay between Clove and Cinnamon is very "sniffable" and lends a slight burnt quality to the accord. With the exception of Musk, all the culprits are blended very well and interact in such a way as to smell as "one". However, If you put your mind to it while sampling, you can pick out all the contributors.

The Oud is easily detectable, but is restrained from completely dominating the composition. I like this more each time I wear it. What's not to like about slightly smoky woods with floral and leathery accents?

For whatever reason, the Musk doesn't integrate, on my skin, like I would anticipate. It may develop better on yours or it could simply be that I can't detect it. After all, there's quite a bit going on here in this dense brew.

Once the base and drydown commence, The Aoud morphs into a sensual leathery-woods that still has smoke ingrained in its DNA. This tilts masculine to me, but we all know the gender line has become more blurred each passing decade. Sillage is perfect with longevity approximately 6 hours on me and then longer as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Mancera's The Aoud and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Monday, November 2, 2015

Black Line by Mancera

Spices, Rose, Patchouli, Amber, Leather, White Musk, Sandalwood, Guaiac.

Indeed, the Rose-Oud-Sandal combinations have pretty much run their course.......or have they? When you sample numerous ones in this genre, there's a commonality to be expected and the whole category can make you indifferent.

Some, however, have that little something-something that's hard to put your finger on, but it's just loud enough, comfortable enough and blended well enough to make you take notice in spite of all the other contenders. This is how I interpret my wearings of Black Line. Personally, I find the category of "niche" rose releases to be somewhat overloaded and because of this, it doesn't seem special to me anymore. I suppose it's run of the mill these days, but that doesn't mean there aren't standouts.

Black Line, on my skin, doesn't come across as either feminine or masculine. It just is. Rose is featured here with complimentary appearances and contributions from others. Subtle spice, some earthy tones, hints of leather and musk, and a touch of woody resin are restrained but evident. The rose manages to stay a step ahead for the life of the scent and the volume never gets raucous. This is a very nice wear if you want these attributes while desiring your scent to remain polite.

It took me a few wearings to fully appreciate Black Line. No, it doesn't raise the bar for Rose fragrances. We are all too different with our perceptions and there are simply to many to choose from. However, this "wears" like I want a rose-centric fragrance to.

Sillage is average with longevity approximately 5 hours on me with moderate sprays. I don't experience mega projection, but the aroma is full nonetheless. These days, I can do without the room clearers. Thumbs up from Aromi for Mancera's Black Line. As always, a sample wear is recommended.

Saturday, October 31, 2015

Maxed Out by 4160Tuesdays

Rum, Coconut, Lime, Tobacco, Coffee, Cannabis Essential Oil, Vintage Musks, Vanilla, Cumin, Atlas Cedar

Okay......this is a definitely a different aroma. I almost feel like I'm packed in an elevator with one part Granola crowd, one part Rastafarian and the other an assortment of suit and tie guys just coming from a meeting.

The first few minutes after application, the contrast of coconut, Lime, Cedar and Ash is a bit eyebrow raising for me. I don't mean the strength, just the aroma. I don't like it, nor do I dislike it. It's weirdly different and maybe just a hair off putting. On the other hand, some of you out there may love this conflict of notes. It does calm down rather quickly and manages to integrate the coconut a bit better once the heart accord commences.

The standouts on my skin are the tangy Coconut and ashy Tobacco. The juxtaposition is eclectic and this is accented with Cedar. I suppose it's simply a grouping of notes I haven't experienced before and the longer the wearings ensue, the more comfortable I become with it.

Any contributions from other listed notes here are minor, at best, on my skin. Perhaps your skin will permit other notes to bloom better than mine did and perhaps they won't. You won't know until you try it.

Maxed Out is an Extrait. I find it full bodied and close. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 5 hours before I'd consider reapplying. I'm going to give this a thumbs up, not because I love it or even like it. Maxed out is off the beaten path and dared to take a chance......even if it wasn't a very big chance. I highly recommend a sample wear before purchase on this one. Who may not want to get out of the elevator.

Broken Theories by Kerosene

Blood Orange, Tobacco, Spices, Vanilla Bean, Sandalwood, Oud, Incense.

Whaddya get when you mix 3 parts Bond-T from Sammarco and a dash of Ore from Slumberhouse? If you took a wild stab and said.......Broken Theories...??? skin would be in complete agreement with your assumption.

Comparisons aside, Broken Theories is good, especially if you're partial to the aforementioned fragrances. It's price point is also better, so that's a definite come up. Even though Cocoa is not listed, I definitely get the suggestion of it as soon as I apply it.

The citrus in the opening is enjoyable, but fleeting. I wish it would have hung around longer on the skin. The other notes all collaborate and bring to life a dense, woody, semi-smoky conglomerate. Either their union has brought about the suggestion of coca, or it's in there and not listed does not matter. It's there, it's good.......and you'll like it........or not.....

Broken Theories is dark. It leans masculine to me, but anyone can wear whatever they like. This would be very suitable for cool to cold temps and has that substance-hang time thing going for it. You'd have to scrub this off and more than likely, there would be remnants of it still left for awhile. Sillage is good with longevity approximately 8 hours on my skin. You should be able to detect this the next day. Thumbs up from Aromi for Broken Theories by Kerosene. As I always do, a sample wear is recommended in lieu of purchase.

Friday, October 30, 2015

Jade by Hendley Perfumes

Spearmint, Geranium, Star Anise, Violet, Benzoin, Sandalwood, Musks.

Before I ever wear a scent, I'll research it a bit. It doesn't matter if folks are fawning over something or have judged it in a negative light. I have my own opinion and after reading what I could find, I expected, well..... the spectacular.

No, that doesn't set the sample wearings up for failure. I always hope everything I sample is fantastic, but we all know how that turns out. Had I never read a thing about Jade, my opinion would be the same as it is now. It's nice.......and that's about it.

Jade delivers in the green department. What blooms on my skin is spearmint with soft floral accents, a hint of wood in the drydown and throughout the life of the scent, a nice contribution of licorice. That said, there really isn't any development on me while wearing Jade. This is all about Spearmint and Anise.

This doesn't lean masculine or feminine. It's pleasant, non threatening and unobtrusive. In close quarters however, you will notice Jade and it's here where Jade retains its significance. That's a facet I like in every fragrance. This is linear on me, but has substance and will probably evoke spring-summer longings in the wearer. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 6 hours before reapplication. I know I haven't inspired any enthusiasm for Jade in this review, but I give it a thumbs up anyway. While not great, it's good and doesn't deserve less. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended before purchase.

Thursday, October 29, 2015

XXX by West Third Brand

Vetiver, Black Pepper, Spice, Mandarin, Iris, Bergamot, Benzoin, Coumarin, Tobacco.

Just looking at the name, without seeing or experiencing the notes, led me to believe this would be a feminine and seductive type scent. A masculine called Triple X???

Once applied to skin, I kind of grinned because this implements a few, dominant notes I enjoy, depending upon how they are tuned. What is noticeable on me, during my wearings, is the Peppery Citrus and Tobacco. I have no idea why they decided to call this XXX, but the scent itself is good, masculine and rather long lasting; a trait that seems to be genetic for West Third Brand.

Once enough time has elapsed for the base notes to reveal themselves, I begin to detect an earthiness, along with a mild, underlying soap that fits quite well with the drydown. Not what I expected, but enjoyable nonetheless. Sometimes, two stages of development is a nice reprieve from the completely linear fragrances I've been testing as of late.

Their website insinuates Barbershop, but I don't get that vibe here. I'm glad too, because if you ask me, there are more than enough scents in that genre to last a few lifetimes. You may disagree, but it's all good. Sillage is average or better, with longevity approximately 6 hours on me and longer as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Trip-X from West Third Brand and as always, a sample wear is recommended.

Baruti NOOUD

Baruti's NOOUD proclaims that it smells of oud, but doesn't contain a single drop. Personally, I don't detect oud here, but if smoky and charred, leathery woods are your thing, you may really like this one.

There isn't listed notes that I could find; as if it's a top secret thing. My educated guess is some Cade, Castoreum, Leather, Incense, Cedar, Sandalwood. NOOUD is an extrait and while not a room clearer, it stays very full in your personal space area. I've worn other similar releases that showcase the smoke and woods and I'll say that Baruti has done a real good job with this one.

This smells niche, if there is such a thing as smelling "niche". Those in this hobby know what I'm referring to. Tenacious, well blended and perceived quality is the impression I get when wearing NOOUD, however....liking it is another ballgame. This isn't for everyone and it leans masculine.

NOOUD is an Indie release that's selling for almost $4 per ml. as an extrait. Now, I don't care for what fragrances in general are selling for anymore. I think it has become rediculous and unjustified, but it is what it is. You either buy it or you don't.Compared to others in the niche and artisan market, this is up there with the better ones for sure. It simply boils down to you liking a linear and long lasting scent that's smoky, leathery and woody.

Sillage is good, but not unruly with longevity 8 hours and longer as a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Baruti's NOOUD and a sample wear is highly recommended before purchase.

Wednesday, October 28, 2015


Oud, Indian Green Tea, Ambergris, White Musk.'s been quite awhile since my initial application of Oud'ish by ZARKOPERFUME and I'm still waiting to stumble upon the Oud. Playing it safe by deeming it "oud-ish" is one thing, but at least give me a facsimile of the note. Nuttin happenin folks. The cows will come home, breed, eat, crap and die of natural causes before you experience any oud-like anything here.

That said and my heartfelt rant over, does Oud'ish have any redeeming qualities? Yes, indeed it does; however I wish they would have named this T'ambergris. This fragrance is linear and very uncomplicated, showcasing Tea and Ambergris on my skin. It does have a contemporary feel to it and either gender can rock this no problem.

Even into the base and drydown, mild Tea, Balsam and Amber are evident at the expected lower volume. The musk that others seem to experience eludes me, but I'm not really disappointed by its lack of presence. What does dissatisfy is the fact that the overall noticeability is not much more than a whisper ( on my skin ) after 30 minutes with normal application. I don't mind certain fragrances being designed as personal-space scents, but this one is simply tuned too low for my tastes.

Sillage is minimal with longevity approximately 3 hours before reapplication. Neutral rating from Aromi due to my liking what I smell, but not liking reapplication so often and having to put an APB out on the Oud note. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended as this is $1.50 per ml.

Pear & Olive by Slumberhouse

Zdravets, Aglaia, Massoia Bark, Olive, Cognac, Pear.

So, you wish to smell like a big ass pear with woody undertones do you? If your answer is yes, then Pear & Olive should suit you perfectly.

Every review I've read already is telling in its own way. Some can't wrap their head around the concept, let alone the aroma; while others simply enjoy the uniqueness of it. As for me.....well I can't say I get the same olfactory experiences others do. The greasiness is one of the qualities I simply don't get, however I do get Pear with woods and a subtle undercurrent of booziness.
It's not groundbreaking, but it really is a nice rendition of Pear.....if you go for that sort of thing.

The concentrations are high in Slumberhouse releases, so it stands to reason that Pear & Olive has extremely good longevity. It doesn't disappoint in that area and the sillage is above average as well.

I wouldn't relegate this scent to certain temps since it smells like spring-summer but is substantial for fall-winter. Personally, I like Pear-Woods-Booze and have no qualms about rocking this. I do hate the price point though, so a sample wear is highly recommended before shelling out almost $6 per ml.

Tuesday, October 27, 2015

R'oud Elements by Kerosene

Oud, Sandalwood, Amber, Vanilla, Lavender, Iris, Orange Bitters.

As soon as I sprayed this on for my first wearing, I had two thoughts. One was "I like it".....and the other was "Incense"? I hadn't expected that note, but there it is, in all its glory, wrapped up inside a fragrant tortilla consisting of mild Agarwood, Lavender, Woods and a really nice rendition of Bitter Orange.

It's interesting to note that Allysa Ashley's Oud pour Lui surprised me with Incense, but it's more of a team player in R'oud Elements and balances everything out rather well. The listed notes give a good account of themselves here and the breakdown on my skin is two stages of development. Once the spicy and bitter citric accord subsides, R'oud evolves into a Woody Oriental with resin.

The totality of my wearings is a positive experience. This scent is smoky in all the right ways without ever resorting to theatrics. I would have seriously enjoyed the Orange hanging around longer, but that's what citric accords usually do; grab your attention, seduce you and then leave you before you even know they're gone. I will say that the ghost of the opening accord lingers, but by the heart and onward, it's a pale rider. The onset of mild oriental notes, resin and woods makes up for it.

Sillage is average with longevity approximately 5 hours before reapplication. Thumbs up from Aromi For Kerosene's more smoky than oudy R'oud Elements. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Old Bourbon by West Third Brand

Sandalwood, Cedar, Vetiver, Amyris, Patchouli, Coumarin, Citrus Peel, Benzoin, Vanilla.

My journey through the product line of West Third Brand continues with Old Bourbon. I'm persuaded, at this juncture of sampling their creations, that they have their own base foundation that everything springboards from. It's like the house soup.

'Bad thing you ask? Not really, since most I've tried so far are bottle worthy. I wish they would cut down on the Benzoin-Vanilla duo in the base and not use it in practically everything. It's starting to get redundant. On the other hand, it's a comfortable wear, with good longevity and price point, so what you have is a bit too much similarity come base and extended drydown.

Old Bourbon however does not conjure up aged-soaked barrels of the libation on me. The coumarin implemented here, more than likely, is a sub that resembles sweet vanilla more than anything else. Old Bourbon has subtle woods and earth on my skin, but most dominant is, you guessed it.....Vanilla with resins.

So, once again, while at the same time a pleasant wear, nothing is holding my attention here enough to nudge me into purchase mode. I'm starting to fear that owning a few of these creations covers the gamut. To own all or most is repetetive, but since I have more to review, I'm hoping to be wrong. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 6 hours and much longer as a skin scent. Nuetral rating from Aromi for redundancy and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Monday, October 26, 2015

Voyage d'Tabac by West Third Brand

Tobacco leaves, Patchouli, Red Amber, Tonka Bean, Vanilla Bean.

Well, this is the first West Third Brand offering to leave me ambivalent. I've been impressed, so far, with this house and I suppose the law of averages dictates some misses along with the hits.

Voyage d'Tabac isn't a bad release. It just does nothing for me. I get a bit of all the listed notes here, but it's blase' on my skin and I can muster no excitement in my description of it. Some may find this very suitable, however I find nothing that stands out and I attempt to avoid owning fragrances that don't exude some type of energy when I wear them.

Voyage d'Tabac smells pleasant enough; aside from just laying on the skin. In 10 minutes of application, the Vanilla and resin begin to rise from the base and integrate with the Tobacco that's been evident from the opening. I can't say I experience much else and the totality of Voyage d'Tabac is simply reminiscent of too many others in the vanilla category. It just doesn't have that "hook".....that something extra that grabs you.

Sillage is moderate to good with longevity being very acceptable like many others from this house. Neutral rating from Aromi for West Third Brand's Voyage d'Tabac and a sample wear is highly recommended before purchase.

Sunday, October 25, 2015

Dior Homme Intense current formula

Lavender, Iris, Vanilla, Amber, Cedarwood, Vetiver,

Ah ! The hype train has elevated Dio Homme Intense to almost mythical status. I speak of the original release with the silver collar. I happen to be reviewing the current formula ( black collar ), but was exposed to the original sometime in 2008. I never owned the silver collar, yet I own the current release. That's not to say I think the new is better. It simply means that years ago, I didn't think enough of Dior Homme Intense to add it to the wardrobe. My tastes have since changed and the current formula is a worthy addition. It doesn't have the cocoa note many enjoy from the 2007 version, but if I want cocoa, I have others to turn to.

The anchor in the current formula is vanilla. It is dominant, on my skin, from the initial spray until the extended drydown gives its last gasp. During the course of the wearings and at different stages of time lapse, the opening accord naturally gives way to dissipation and reveals a soft, woody-resin in the base, along with the ever-present vanilla.

The combination of Iris-Lavender and Vanilla in the top and heart have a subtle soap aspect. This remains until the drydown stage and overall, Dior Homme Intense is a linear, but pleasant wear. Nothing earth-shattering for sure, but versatile and enjoyable nonetheless. Sillage is good with longevity approximately 8 hours on me and longer as a skin scent. You'll detect this easily the next day. Thumbs up from Aromi for Dior Homme Intense, regardless of formula. As always, a sample wear is recommended before purchase.

Saturday, October 24, 2015

White Sea by Martine Micallef

Lemon, Bergamot, Rosemary, Lavender, Patchouli, Geranium, Ambergris, Iris, Musk.

Martine Micallef's White Sea possesses a seriously good opening accord of Citrus and spicy Lavender. While this quickly dissipating accord envelopes you immediately after application, the Iris note is already swimming to the surface for a breath of air. Like Yellow Sea, the construction is on the dense side and makes me feel like I'm wearing something well made. Most of Martine Micallef's creations are, in fact, well made and off the beaten path. That's a good thing, but the marketing is another ball game altogether. It's like professional parfumeurs make something of substance, then relinquish it into the hands of amateurs for sale to the public.

White Sea doesn't remind me of the "sea", nor does it bring up images of seashores, wooden decks and the smell of brine. Personally, I could care less if a name doesn't correspond with the aroma. White Sea happens to be a very nice scent that's marketed to Men, but I think it's way more versatile than that. It's a two stage, spicy citric-lavender that eventually succumbs to the ever striving Iris. There's accents of earth tones and Geranium and they're tuned intelligently.

White Sea also isn't boisterous.Projection is moderate after 5 minutes or so, with longevity approximately 4 hours on me before morphing into a skin scent. There's subtle resin in the background during the base and drydown, but the Iris is the star here. Thumbs up from Aromi for Micallef's White Sea and as always, a sample wear is recommended before purchase.

Friday, October 23, 2015

Marche De Tabac by West Third Brand

Tobacco, Anise, Orange, Cedar, Sandalwood, leather, Clove, Musk.

Fans of Versace's Dreamer may just want to give this a spin. It's in that wheelhouse, but not a spot-on clone. This is one of the better clove implementations I've come across as of late and it adds a nice dimension to Marche De Tabac's opening accord.

There are moments where I think I'm getting whiffs of mint, but I believe it's the way the clove is interacting with the Tobacco, Anise and Citrus notes. Be aware that this also goes on a bit oily and if you think that may be an indicator of good longevity, you would be correct. This creation is also linear like the others I've worn from this house, but I still haven't sampled one yet I've disliked.

Upon application, Marche De Tabac salutes you with the house note of Tobacco accented with hints of Orange, subtle Licorice and Clove. It's a rather dense accord that stays very full with about average sillage. The projection is very intelligent and with 3 sprays of this, you can call it good.

The drydown affords more of the same, albeit at lower presence and reveals soft woods on my skin. You may experience more of the leather and Musk than I do, but that's all part of the fun. What I do get during the wearings is pleasing and I'm impressed with not only the aroma, but the longevity as well. It lasts approximately 8 hours on me, so there's good bang for the buck. Thumbs up from Aromi for West Third Brand's Marche De Tabac. As usual, a sample wear is recommended before purchase.

Thursday, October 22, 2015

Gucci Oud by Gucci

Pear, Raspberry, Saffron, Bulgarian Rose, Orange Blossom, Oud, Patchouli, Amber, Musk.

You would think, by the listed notes at least, that this offering would tilt feminine. On my skin however, I would say this is as shared as you can get; not to mention an interesting take on the genre.

I have to admit that I wasn't expecting to like this as much as I do. Gucci Oud sits in the middle of the gender line and has a conservative volume and presence. The overall scent is linear and the oud is very detectable from the moment you apply it. The fruit, floral and saffron notes accent the oud note during the top and heart, only to be joined by a subtle resin and musk during the base and drydown.

The Raspberry note is integrated nicely here. I recently reviewed a masculine fragrance with a well tuned Raspberry and either I have found a new note that I didn't realized I liked........or........I've been fortunate to sample two fragrances that have a well done rendition of it. Either way, I like what I smell and the note genuinely compliments the oud here in Gucci.

Don't expect a sillage monster or an oud with projection enough to annoy people around you. This isn't boisterous, but is substantial nonetheless. Longevity is approximately 5 hours, but the skin scent lingers much longer. Thumbs up from Aromi for Gucci Oud and as always, a sample wear is recommended before purchase.

Vintage Leather by West Third Brand

Moss, Tobacco, Cedar, Leather, Patchouli, Musk.

Vintage Leather by West Third Brand is truly all about Leather. The opening spray greets you to leather accentuated by tobacco ( surprise, surprise !!! ). The extended drydown avails the wearer a supple, Aramis facsimile and whatever assists come from the other listed notes are merely props in the leather play.

I suppose the most surprising quality Vintage Leather afforded me with was its longevity. From the initial spray, it didn't possess that recognizable tenacity I normally get from a scent that has serious hang time. However, Vintage Leather did not care about my opinion and decided to hang around all day after 3 spritzes.

If there is a downside to this release, it's because it's a one-trick pony. To Darwin's dismay, there will be no evolution in aroma or accords. It simply is what it is and what you smell coming out of the bottle is what you'll enjoy in the drydown; albeit at a much lower volume and projection. It's in the base and extended drydown that the pale ghost of Aramis lifts the veil.

Do I like it? Uh......yes I do. This isn't only very wearable, but versatile and in spite of leaning masculine, I believe this can be pulled off by the female persuasion ( should they want to). This has substance once applied, but not the projection to be a room clearer or anything close to that. It's stays phat while hugging your personal space.

Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 8 hours on my skin before reapplication. Thumbs up from Aromi for Vintage Leather by West Third Brand. As always, a sample wear is recommended.

Wednesday, October 21, 2015

Tobacco 1812 by West Third Brand

Sweet Tobacco Leaf, Honey, Cocoa, Tonka Bean, Tobacco Flower, Dried Fruit, Exotic Woods.

Well folks, I can't say I know what Tobacco Flower is, or what exactly is meant by Dried Fruit or Exotic Woods, but I will say I like Tobacco 1812.

West Third Brand is an Indie House I'm investigating as of late, due to hearing good things and their economical price point. Naturally, I don't expect every release to be to my liking, but so far, they are 2 for 2. Tobacco 1812 is sweet indeed, but not cloying or off putting. It's about as sweet as I'd want it to be without crossing the line in a tabac offering. The Tonka, Vanilla and Honey may not be integrated perfectly, but the blending is good enough.

In part, Tobacco 1812 reminds of a vanilla candle. Only in part mind you, as possibly the backdrop of the fragrance. Vanilla is what blooms the most on my skin during every wearing. The tobacco, at least on me, is minimal at best, but I do get the suggestion of it. The same goes for the listed honey as it acts as an embellishment to the vanilla. The cocoa and dried fruit don't come to fruition, but they may be noticeable on you.

In spite of my not realizing all the listed notes, it really doesn't take away from the wearing experience. This is actually a nice, unisex frag that has decent bang for the buck. I wouldn't hesitate to wear this in any temperature either. I can't say that about all Vanilla-Dominant fragrances I own. Sillage is moderate to good with longevity approximately 5 hours before reapplication. Thumbs up from Aromi for West Third Brand's Tobacco 1812 and a sample wear is definitely recommended before purchase.

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Schlossparfumerie Signature Line P-100 Jubilee EDP

Incense, Spices, Oud, Amber, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Patchouli.

If you happen to be on the prowl for an oud fragrance that has no rose, but is tenacious, enveloping and lasts for days, then look no further than P-100 Jubilee from the Signature Line of Schlossparfumerie. For longevity and presence, I'll give this a 10, but I gotta tell you that this is simply too much for me. Think Jack Nicholson screaming "You can't handle the Oud" !!!

In my case, this is true. For my westernized sensibilities, I need a toned down and highly integrated rendition of this note. P-100 Jubilee is like getting punched in my mouth with both fists at once. I'm certain there are MANY who will absolutely love this Oud. They're tired of the watered down, synthetic wannabees that posture and position themselves in the niche market. P-100, on the other hand, is just too real for me to deal. I'll leave this one for the legit Oudies.

There are obviously other listed notes here besides Oud, but I cannot give you a breakdown on anything or anyone as I am olfactory fatigued after just one minute wearing this. Of course the other notes are "in play", but the Oud is too front and center to focus on anything else. They act as an embellishment and nothing more.

I have a full bottle of this powerhouse and I know I could get used to it in increments, but just because I could adjust doesn't mean I want this wafting off my body during full wearings. This is simply too much of a "good?" thing. I'll stick with my synthetic and westernized versions.

Sillage is stupid and longevity will be a crowd pleaser for some......and hell for others. Neutral rating from Aromi the Oud weakling for P-100 Jubilee by Schlossparfumerie and if you don't sample this before purchase, you deserve what you get.

Leather Oudh by Al Haramain

Thyme, Raspberry, Jasmine, Cashmere Wood, Labdanum, Iris, Leather, Cedar, Amber, Musk.

I came across this recently and decided to add it to the collection. As always, I look for information if I've never sampled it before in order to decide if I'm going to pull the trigger or not. To be honest, there isn't a whole lot out there on this scent, but what I did read intrigued me enough to go for it.

Leather Oudh proved to be a good blind buy. As has been the case lately, I'm reviewing yet another fragrance that doesn't possess much movement. It's more a matter of the volume lowering over time, in order to unveil the base notes and drydown. Regardless, Leather Oudh is a nice wear.

Leather Oudh opens with a sheer accord of fruity leather. It's different, it's funky and I like it. Within a few minutes, the Iris inserts itself and lends a stemmy-violet like quality to the top accord. Even with multiple sprays on the same spot of skin, Leather Oudh doesn't yell or raise its voice above a polite volume. The projection is moderate and in my opinion it's tuned rather well. The interplay between the listed Raspberry, Jasmine and Iris is enjoyable and there's just enough "sweet" to accent the leather and keep it on point.

Now, is there oud? No, there's no agarwood present in Leather Oudh, so unless you assume the subtle,leathery woods in the drydown justifies the name, then all is well. The drydown, at least for me, is nice enough and I still get the suggestion of oud from the combination of players. I'm not a fan of pungent oud as it is, but I do enjoy the note when it's toned down. In Leather Oudh, there's no worries about that.

There's versatility here folks as Leather Oudh should be as comfortable in the office as it would be in nightlife. There's nothing polarizing or loud, just a nice wear for either gender regardless of the situation.

Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 5-6 hours before I would consider reapplication. Thumbs up from Aromi for Al Haramain's Leather Oudh. As always, a sample wear is recommended before purchase.

Monday, October 19, 2015

Oudh Noire by West Third Brand

Agarwood, Patchouli, Red Rose, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Jasmine, Teakwood, Balsam, Cardamom, Vanilla, Musk.

I've decided to focus, as of late, on indie houses that are garnering some attention. I've heard some positive things about West Third Brand and decided to investigate for myself. I've chosen to begin with Oudh Noire due to oud being a problematic note for some.

I've applied 2 sprays of Oudh Noire about an hour ago. The opening is bright without any heaviness whatsoever. You can smell the triumvirate of Oud-Rose-Jasmine immediately and as the life of the scent progresses, the only changes I detect are this opening accord dissipating into a personal space scent and the introduction of mild wood, balsamic and earth tones.

Oudh Noire has a light nature without conceding its soul. West Third Brand seems to rely on the opposite approach taken by upcoming artisan perfumers who build their creations with density. Still, I find myself getting decent longevity. The upside is that this particular brand will not "wear" you. To over-apply this, it would have to be done deliberately. I could, in good conscience, recommend this as an office oud. I've heard it said about this fragrance that it is an oud for people who don't really like oud. I have to agree with that assessment.

Oudh Noire, on my skin, is a rendition of Oud, Rose and Jasmine that cannot possibly be tuned any lower and still be noticeable. It's not weak, it's simply designed to radiate only so much off your skin, yet is very pleasant up close and personal. For people who use fragrances on a regular, if not daily basis, I think it would be safe to say that scents of all strength-tiers are useful. Sometimes light and transparent is the perfect choice, while other times you want an azz kicker and you reach for that. Oudh Noire falls into the lighter and more lucid camp.

Sillage is moderate at first, then quickly morphs into a close scent. Longevity is approximately 5 hours or more before reapplication. Thumbs up from Aromi for West Third Brand's Oudh Noire. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Sunday, October 18, 2015

Bond-T by Giovanni Sammarco

Cocoa, Castoreum, Patchouli, Tonka, Vanilla. Osmanthus.

Giovanni Sammarco is a relative newcomer in the artisan perfume market. By newcomer I mean 2012 going into 2013. He is part of a slowly emerging group of independent perfumers that create substantial fragrances and ones that you won't find mass produced or marketed. Bond-T is the only one if his line I've tried so far, but it has the DNA and tenacity you'd expect from high concentrations and the use of numerous absolutes.

So far, I've worn Bond-T a number of times and have no problem stating that, at least for me, this is a fall-winter scent. It has gravitas and disdains conventional "transitions" as most artisan scents I've sampled seem to have in common. What's conceded in the top-to-heart-to-base and beyond is made up for with substance and longevity.

Bond-T is one of those scents that will envelope you in a shroud of aroma and still be detectable the next day. Fragrances made in this fashion, with ingredients of this nature are an acceptable trade off if you ask me. The trick lies in the "application".

First, allow me to say I experience the "suggestion" of an intermittent and wispy cherry tobacco. I don't mean smoke or outright tabac. Surrounding this phantom is a pungent and dusty cocoa and earthy woods. The listed Castoreum reacts, on me at least, as a subtle animalic as opposed to a leathery quality. You may perhaps experience something  a bit different.

The blueprint in this accord is something I've encountered before in a Slumberhouse and Lutens creation. Bond-T has its own fingerprint however and gives its own spin on something done before. Osmanthus will evoke plummy raisin to some, yet the rendition here is responsible for my smelling a soft cherry-tabac as it plays off the other culprits.

Overall, Bond-T is a straightforward and linear semi- gourmand that highlights cocoa, woods, earth tones and hints of tobacco. Sillage is very good and gives the envelope effect for quite some time. Longevity is also impressive and can be easily detected 24 hours later. Thumbs up from Aromi for Giovanni Sammarco's Bond-T and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.